NYFW: Milly Presents Vivid Colors for Fall 2011

Pictured: The traditional  navy outfit that kicked off the Milly Fall 2011 gave no hit of the colors to follow. (photo Getty images.)

Last week Milly (designer Michelle Smith) produced a surprisingly colorful collection for Fall 2011.  The show open with a model walking out in the classic above navy blue ensemble.  I thought that first look would set the tone for a traditional dark-hued Fall collection, but I was very wrong.  After the parade of the first few looks, everything changed.   The Lincoln Center runway was fully lit with purples greens, navys, pinks reds, melons, salmons, terracottas, browns, yellow, some plaids and even some of Milly’s distinctive prints.

Pictured: Milly’s color palette was striking, but more spring than traditional Fall. (photo Getty images.)

According to Ms. Smith her inspiration for this collection was French photographer Guy Bourdin.  Bourdin’s photos appeared in French Vogue and ads for Charles Jordon.  Bourdin didn’t play it safe with his photos, using color and sex to make a fashion statement.  Sometimes his photos were considered shocking and you could say that about some of the Milly Fall 2011 pieces.  They were beautiful, but almost blindingly brilliant with reds layered with corals and pinks.    Even more shocking were  the deep greens paired with purples.

Pictured: Who knew green, coral and purple could mix so well? Michelle Smith.  (photo Getty images.)

Beyond the influence of Guy Bourdin, I saw flashes of art collector and fashion eccentric Peggy Guggenheim in the big glasses and a poppy print dress on a solid black background. (Peggy was the influence for Milly’s spring collection.) I adore Milly’s French sense of style and impeccable tailoring, but I’m not sure I would pair emerald green with purple for winter wear.   I’d be more inclined to go with her cream ensemble and accent it with some bright blue gloves or stylish colored tights to lighten things up.

Pictured: A more traditional Milly winter white ensemble.  (photo Getty images.)

It wasn’t all about color at Milly. There were more sedate pieces in the Milly Fall 2011 collection.  There were brown coats and corduroy culottes shown with boots, along with black cocktail dresses. For fabrics, there were plenty of tweeds, mohairs and suedes as befits colder temperatures. I liked this Fall collection from Milly, but some of the neon bright colors won’t be for everyone. They looked brilliant on the runway, layered on tall slender models wearing them like a peacock wears its plums. Will they look like that on women of all shapes and sizes? Or petite women?  I think it’s reasonable to expect that not every woman will want to match the Milly Fall 2011 separates as they were shown on the runway at New York Fashion Week.   I’ll be interested to see the pieces on sale at Nordstroms and Bloomingdales, where Milly can always be found.  And of course, I’ll be shopping with a coupon or at the sale.